Eating in Greece

On Evia the tavernas are still very traditional. Greek food is not served plated but is more like a personal buffet.

So how should you order?

Firstly decide on what will be the main part of the meal, fish or meat. A large variety of vegetarian dishes are available including giant beans (yigantes) and saganaki kyrie (fried cheese) gemista (stuffed tomato and pepper) and plenty more.

Choose fish carefully as larger fish are sold by the kilo. You should ask to see what is available and see it weighed and priced before committing to it. As a guide ½ kilo (mesa kilo) is a good sized portion. If you love fish and are apprehensive about all this looking and weighing there are some portion options. These are sardines (sardeyla),large whitebait (gavros), kalamari (kalamariki), octopus, all of which are delicious and will serve 2 people per portion. It is important to ask if these are ‘fresca’ or you may end up with frozen (similar to what you get in the UK and definitely lacking in taste).

 

Meat varies, bifteki is a delicious beefburger normally 3 to a portion (standard in the Butcher’s restaurant in Old Styra), pandayika are lamb chops sold by the kilo and a kilo will be 2 very large portions, Souvlaki varies from taverna to taverna, and pork chops are especially delicious and large. Casseroles are sometimes available (always at Cavodoro in Karystos, also try the tavaerna with the balcony overlooking Old Styra square) and a speciality is the kid in lemon sauce.

Gyros are greek kebabs available at snack bars. Mousaka and pastitio are available during the holiday season (try Hotel Sunday). These are a very good single portion so if you are just after a snack you could have one between 2 and a salad.

Now having chosen your main part think of what you would like to go with it. Smaller tavernas use tasty local potatoes to make wonderful chips (patatas tyganites) and a portion will feed at least 2, Greek Salad (horiatiki) is tomato cucumber onion and a large slice of feta again at least 2 portions. One of our favourites is Melazanes tyganites (aubergines sliced thinly and fried in a very light batter). Also in spring delicious spinach like greens (horta) are cooked with olive oil and lemon.

So now your order is placed and soon something will arrive! There is no predicting what order the food arrives in although usually the bread is delivered first in a basket with the knives forks and napkins. The bread is delicious especially with one of the famous dips, tzatziki (cucumber and yoghurt) scordilla (garlic) taramsalata (cods roe) melazanisalata (aubergine). Local wine (crazi) is served in jugs always chilled red or rose (cocino) and white (aspro).
You will soon get used to this relaxed way of eating and settle back to mull over the day or discuss more philosophical ideas in the Greek tradition.

Deserts are not available in most Tavernas although sometimes the owner will offer you some apples with honey and cinnamon or melon in season. So after you have had enough to eat (and remember you can always ask for more) you can move on to a coffee bar /ice cream parlour/ or creperie.  Metaxa (greek brandy) or Ouzo (large measures) can be ordered to sip with your coffee whilst more people watching takes place.

Cost in 2011 has gone up with the poor rate of exchange but as a general rule on Evia a really good meat meal or fish portion meal with plenty of house wine works out at about £12 (12euro)  a head and with weighed fish £18 (18euro) on the sea front. For a coffee, crepe and metaxa you should allow £6 (6euro). Visit the villages and the price is less. On the mainland and in Athens prices are more. Cooking at home is about half the price of eating out and makes a great change. Later in the season barbecues should be used with caution as a stray spark can cause devastating fires.